A Cake is a dish that is reserved for special occasions. Like all foods and dishes, they too have a deep history. The first cakes were made in Egypt, they were simple pieces of bread dipped in honey. The round cakes came around the 17th Century, signifying the cyclic life, the sun, and the moon. Back then the ingredients used to make cakes were expensive. Thus it became an honor to be served cakes on birthdays and weddings. Today, though cakes are not super expensive, they are still served as a dish that tells us how cherished we are by our loved ones.
Did you ever wonder how these cakes came to India? The dish was introduced in the subcontinent by the British. During the colonial period, bakeries were first opened in Kolkata. However, these catered exclusively to British clients. In 1883, for the first time, Indians got the taste of Cakes, all thanks to a bakery in Thalassery, Kerala. In the same decade, P.V. Kuppusawny Naidu opened his Naidu and Sons Bakery.
His great-great-grandson, Cordon bleu alumnus Chef Priyank Sukanand, is the CEO of Bangalore Connection 1888. The present shop opened its door in 2018. It is the revival of the old 1888 bakery that closed down in 1982. He shares the story of his grandfather’s journey with RATH. And tells us what it means to be a part of this legacy.
Can you tell the readers about your grandfather and his bakery?
Chef Priyank: My Great-great grandfather P.V. Kuppusawny Naidu founded the Naidu and Sons bakery in 1888. Before that, he started his journey as a baker in a slum, by the cantonment Railway Station, Bangalore. Carrying a basket over his head, he sold self-baked loaves of bread to the British Passengers in the railway station. From this, he started his bakery in Shivaji Nagar. Consecutively he opened two other branches across the city.
Well, your great-great-grandfather was an Industrious man! Do you have some interesting anecdotes about him?
Chef Priyank: Yes he was a very enterprising person. He was a farmer-turned-baker. He moved from his village in Tiruvannamalai District, Tamil Nadu. Traveling on foot he reached Bangalore, where he learned the art of bread making.
Since Cakes were primarily consumed by the British, Did your great-great-grandfather have any special Cliental?
Chef Priyank: The British Greatly favored his cakes and bread. I remember an interesting story about my great great grandfather. During the great Bangalore Plague of 1898, my grandfather supplied free bread and mutton stew to the British Government Hospitals like- Martha, St. Philomena, and Victoria Hospitals. Impressed, the Mayor of Bangalore gave him three wishes. My great-great-grandfather asked for a street to be named after him. His second wish was that all the property of the street should be owned by him. And lastly, when he died the street should be washed, a white sheet of cloth to be spread over the street and his body carried over it. All three wishes were granted!
Note: The P.V. Kuppuswamy Naidu Street is located in Shivaji Nagar, Bangalore
Are there any recipes or events that continue even today?
Chef Priyank: Ayudha Puja during the Dasara is a memorable event. All over South India, the artisans worship the equipment related to our professions. That was the one day the bakery would never shut! Instead, the employees would make fresh loaves and mutton stew after the puja. The whole neighborhood was invited to break the bread and stew for free! This tradition was followed generation after generation. We still observe this today at Bangalore Connection 1888.
(Note: Ayudha puja is observed in Southern India as a part of Navaratri celebrations. It is believed the artisan’s instruments hold divine power that makes them work properly. )
As one of the oldest bakeries of India, can you describe the legacy left by your forefathers in the cake industry?
Chef Priyank: Many of our old employees, who worked at the Naidu and Sons Bakery, went on to open their brands. One such Brand was the Nilgiris Bakery, which was sold to the future group. Family members from the Nilgiri’s bakery were trained under the Naidu and Sons bakery. The SR bakery, Excellsia bakery owners, trained under my great great grandfather.
What are the changes in the architecture around the city and within the interior of the bakery?
Chef Priyank: The architecture around the city has changed tremendously. The store is designed in colonial architecture, and takes reference from the Public Library in Cubbon Park. We used the red colour like other important buildings in Bangalore. Despite the changes in architecture of the city, recently the old and heritage properties and houses are being preserved and refurbished. Especially in parts of Malleshwaram, Fraser town, Shivajinagar etc where a lot of Dravidian and Jain style architecture exist along with the Colonial buildings.
What was the inspiration behind the name Bangalore connection 1888?
Chef Priyank: We named the bakery Bangalore Connection 1888, to eliminate the caste identity. We also rebranded it, so that it becomes relevant to the present generation and at the same time resonates with its revival. And also I wished to focus on my journey with the bakery and the part that I will contribute to the legacy. After all, what resonates with every Bangalorean are nostalgia and our connection with the past.
Finally, just one more question: what does heritage mean to you?
Chef Priyank: Heritage for me is the story. Our past defines our today and our today defines the future. Holding on to the past, the positive experiences, the journey, and the struggles that each person goes through creates a legacy. I think it is a duty to continue the legacy left behind by my grandfathers. To keep it alive is a personal duty for me towards my ancestors, without whom I wouldn’t be here today. I am Grateful to them for giving me this privileged life and that’s why I would like to carry on this legacy and take it forward.
Chef Priyank adds further that the Bangalore Connection 1888 is an ode to the legacy of his forefathers. It tells the story of not just his family but of the entire city that came together in the bakery. Presently, Bangalore connection is healing like all the businesses from the Covid 19. It is waiting to serve its customers in a more refined form after its renovations are over.